Mandalay

The last capital of the third Myanmar Empire, Mandalay is situated in central Myanmar 668 km due north of Yangon. It was built in 1857 by King Mindon. It is the largest city after Yangon and is both a bustling commercial centre and a repository of ancient culture. The city is now almost 150 years old. The city took its name from the Mandalay Hill which is situated at the north-east corner of the present town. The hill has for long been a holy mount, and tradition has it that the Buddha on his visit with his disciple Ananda had prophesied that in the 2400th year of his religion (1857 A.C) a great city, metropolis of Buddhism, would be founded at its foot. King Mindon fulfilled the prophesy by shifting his capital from Amarapura to the site of the present city. The classical name of the city is Ratanapon (“City of Gems”).

On the day the ground-breaking ceremony for the construction of the new Mandalay city was held, King Mindon decided to build seven structures : The Palace, The Moat, Kuthodaw Pagoda ( the Royal Bounty), Ordination Hall, Atumashi Monasetry (The Incomparable Monastery),Prayer Hall and Library.

The fortified city is in the form of a square each side of which was 10 furlongs in length. A battlemented wall of brick and mud mortar has a total height of 25 feet and is backed by an earthen rampart. There are 12 gates, three on each side, at equal distance from each other and surmounted by pyatthats or pavilions of wood. Together with a pyatthat at each corner of the wall and 32 smaller intermediate pyatthats these total 48 in number. The city was surrounded by the Moat 225 feet wide and 11 feet deep. There were five wooden bridges crossing the Moat, four of which leading to the four main gates. The palace occupied the central spot in the city. It was removed from Amarapura and was reconstructed at Mandalay. It consisted of numerous wooden buildings, many of them highly carved and gilt, on a high platform enclosed by a brick wall. King Thibaw added a few masonry structures. All these were destroyed by fire during the last war. However, a replica of the Lion Throne survived the war as it was removed from the Hluttaw or Supreme Court which was outside the palace complex to be deposited in the Indian Museum at Culcutta soon after the annexation of Upper Myanmar. This throne was restored to Myanmar after independence and is now exhibited in the National Museum at Yangon.

Places of Interest in Mandalay Areas

KYAUKTAWGYI PAGODA

The King Mindon had it built in 1853 but only in 1865 it was finished and the dedication ceremony performed, in which the King himself participated. The Buddha image in this Pagoda was carved out of a single block of white marble which was quarried from Sagyin Hill, a few miles to the north of Mandalay. The marble block was so huge that ten thousand men had to be employed for 13 days to transport it from a canal to the site of the Pagoda.

KUTHODAW PAGODA (THE Pagoda of Royal Merit)

Also known as the Maha Lawka Marazein Pagoda, the central stupa here was modeled after Shwezigon Pagoda at Nyaung U near Bagan. Building commenced in 1857, at the same time as the royal palace. The pagoda complex has been dubbed ‘ the world’s biggest book ’ for standing around the central stupa are 729 marble slabs on which are inscribed the entire Buddhist canon, or Tripitaka. Each slab is housed in its own individual small stupa.
It took an editorial committee numbering over 200 to produce the original slabs. It has been estimated that, reading for eight hours a day, one person would take 450 days to read the complete ‘ book ’. King Mindon convened the Fifth Buddhist Synod and used a team of 2400 monks to read the whole book in a non-stop relay lasting nearly six months! In 1900 a paper edition of the stone original was printed in 38 volumes, each with about 400 pages. A 730th slab in the corner of the inner enclosure tells of the construction of this amazing book.

ATUMASHI MONASTERY (The Incomparable Monastery)

To the south of the Kuthodaw pagoda lies the remains of the Atumashi or Incomparable Monastery was built by King Mindon in 1857 at a cost of five hundred thousand repees. The building was of wood covered with stucco on the outside and its peculiar feature was the superstructure of five graduated rectangular terraces instead of the customary pyatthats or multiple roofs. In it was enshrined a huge image of Buddha and four sets of Buddhist canon (Tripitaka) in large teak boxes. The whole building together with its contents was burnt in 1890. What now remain of the magnificent structure are the masonry balustrade and staircases with elaborate stucco carvings.

SHWENANDAW MONASTERY (Golden Palace Monastery)

Close to the Atumashi Monastery stands the Shwenandaw Monastery or Golden Palace Monastery. This monastery is of great interest not only as a fine example of a traditional Burmese wooden monastery, but as a fragile reminder of he old Mandalay Fort. At one time this building was part of the palace complex and was used as an apartment by King Mindon and his chisf queen, and it was in this building that he died. After Mindon’s death, King Thibaw had the building dismantled and reassembled on its present site in 1880 as a monastery. It is said that Thibaw used the building for meditation, and the couch on which he sat can still be seen.
The building is covered inside and out with carved panels; unfortunately, though, many of the exterior panels have weathered badly and some have been prised off and removed. At one time the building was gilded and decorated with glass mosaics. The carved panels inside are still in excellent condition, particularly the 10 jataka scenes taken from the Buddha’s life.

MAHAMUNI PAGODA(Great Sage Pagoda)

It is also sometimes called Payagyi or Big Pagoda or the Rakhine (Arakan) Pagoda. It was originally built by King Bodawpaya in 1784, when a road paved with bricks was constructed from his palace to the pagoda’s eastern gate. You can still find traces of this royal highway. In 1884, the shrine was destroyed by fire; the current one is comparatively recent.
The centerpiece of the this shrine is the highly venerated Mahamuni image which was transported to Myanmar from Mrauk U (Myohaung) in Rakhine in 1784. It was believed to be of great age even at that time it may have been cast during the 1st century AD and the surrounding complex was specially built for it. The four meter high seated image is cast in bronze, but over the years countless thousands of devout Buddhists have completely covered the figure in a 15 cm thick layer of gold-leaf. Only men are permitted to walk up to the Mahamuni image and apply gold-leaf. During the rainy season it is cloaked in monastic robes. And the Image is also considered as the greatest, next to Shwedagon Pagoda in Myanmar.

MANDALAY HILL

The hill has for long been a holy mount and legend has it that the Buddha on His visit had prophesied that a great city would be found at its foot.The 954 feet high hill,standing to the north-east of the royal palace is a hallowed complex indeed as it is covered with pagodas, images of the Buddha, works of sculpture dealing with the former lives of the Buddha and some other aspects of Buddhism. The fame of the hill began to spread far and wide when U Khanti, a great hermit, started building religious structures including covered stairways all over the hill at the turn of the century. U khanti is worth special mention as a great dignitary who did vast religious renovation and construction works all over the country especially at remote hills and forest areas at an inestimable cost, with funds from public donations. At present, it has already finished the construction of motor-car road to reach hill top easily.

Around Mandalay

The area around Mandalay has a number of attractions well worth visiting. The four “ deserted cities ” ( Amarapura, Ava, Sagaing and Mingun) are all within easy day tripping distance, as is the atmospheric old “ hill station ” of Pyin Oo Lwin (MayMyo).

AVA (Innwa)

After the disintegration of the Kindom of Bagan, Ava emerged as the capital of the Burmese Kings, having been founded by Thado Minbya in 1364 AD. It remained as such for over 300 years, till Bodawpaya switched over to nearby Amarapura. Ava was on an artificially created island, an island formed by linking the Ayewarwaddy and the Myitnge by a canal. Unlike Amarapura, the city walls are still to be seen, in some places defying the ravages of weather and encroachments by man.

Places of Interest in Ava Areas

WATCH TOWER

The 27 meter high masonry watch tower, the Nanmyint, is all that remains of he palace built by Bagyidaw. The upper portion was shattered by the 1838 earthquake and the rest has taken on a precarious tilt, it’s known as the ‘ leaning tower of Ava ’.

MAHA AUNGMYAY BONZAN

Also known as the Ok Kyaung, this is a brick-and stucco monastery built by the chief queen of Bagyidaw for her royal abbot in 1818. Monasteries were normally built of wood and were prone to deterioration from the elements or destruction by fire. Although this monastery was built in imitation of the traditional wooden style, its masonry construction has ensured its survival. The 1838 earquake badly damaged it, but in 1873 it was restored.

AVA BRIDGE

This British-engineered, 16 span bridge dates to 1934 and is the only structure that crosses the Ayeyarwaddy river, although a new bridge planned near Pyay may end that distinction. The bridge was put out of action by the British in 1942 when they demolished tow spans in order to deny passage to the advancing Japanese. Not until 1954 was the bridge repaired and put back into operation. It carries two lanes of traffic plus a railway line.

AMARAPURA

The name “ AMARAPURA ” means ‘ the immortal city ’ and in its heyday wealth, learning and fashion were concentrated there. Amarapura was founded as the capital of his kingdom by King Bodawpaya, and in 1782 he moved there from Ava (Innwa), the former capital. Bagyidaw, the grandson of Bodawpaya, shifted the capital back to Innwa in 1832, but Tharrawaddy, who succeeded Bagyidaw in 1837, returned it to Amarapura, where it remained for a further 23 years, till King Mindon founded Mandalay. Many reasons may have caused King Mindon to make this move. Possibly he wanted the fame that a king earns by founding a new capital; possibly he wanted to erase the bad name Amarapura had gained through the discreditable reign of King Bagan, his elder brother. But certainly he was influenced by a prophecy. Local tradition says that when the Lord Buddha, accompanied by his disciple Ananda, visited Mandalay Hill, he prophesied that in the 2400th year of the propagation of his faith, a great city would rise there and become famous far and wide as the outstanding centre of Buddhism. The 2400th year coincided with the year 1857 and so King Mindon began building the city of Mandalay that year.

Because many of the buildings that stood in Amarapura were removed to Mandalay, there is little to see in Amarapura now. Even the walls of the palace have been pulled down and used in the construction of roads and railways. However, you can still see the four pagodas that marked the corners of the palace walls, and also the remains of the watch-tower and royal treasury.
Today Amarapura is famous for its silk-weaving industry, which produces very high quality silk, and for the Kyee Thun Khat village, where bronze images of the Buddha are cast. Both of these crafts have been practiced in Amarapura for many generations.

Places of Interest in Amarapura Areas

PAHTODAWGYI PAGODA

It was built by King Bodawpaya in 1820.

U BEIN’S BRIDGE

This is about a mile long, and is constructed of teak that U Bein, the then mayor, salvaged from the Innwa palace when Innwa was abandoned as the capital. Although more than 200 years old, the bridge is still in use; it spans the Taung Thaman Lake, which is dry during the summer months, but full of water when the Ayeyarwaddy overflows during the rains.

SAGAING

Sagaing is about 20km south-west of Mandalay and is easily reached y road. Sagaing became capital of an independent Shan Kingdom around 1315, after the fall of Bagan had thrown central Myanmar into chaos. Its period of importance was short, for in 1364 the founder’s grandson, Thado Minbya moved his capital across the river to Ava. For four brief years, from 1760 to 1764, Sagaing was once again the capital, but its historic importance is comparatively minor.
Today it’s mostly known as a religious centre that supports dozens of Buddhist monasteries and nunneries as well as a major monastic hospital.

Places of Interest in Sagaing Areas

KAUNGHMUDAW PAGODA

Best known of the Sagaing stupas, this huge whitewashed edifice is actually situated 10 km beyond the town of Sagaing. The enormous dome rises 46 meters in the shape of a perfect hemisphere and was modeled after the Mahaceti (Great Stupa) in Sri Lanka. Also known as Rajamanicula, the zedi was built in 1636 to commemorate Ava’s establishment as the royal capital of Mayanmar.

MINGUN

Mingun, located about 11 km upriver from Mandalay on the opposite bank of the Ayeyarwaddy is accessible only by river.

MINGUN PAGODA

The pagoda, if completed, would have risen unfinished when Bodawpaya died in 1819. As it stands it is the biggest brick pile in the world, the bottom terrace being a square of 450 feet and the basement on which the domical superstructure would rest rising to 162 feet.

MINGUN BELL

Bodawpaya had cast the largest bronze bell in Myanmar and also constructed a pair of colossal lions in brick and mortar. The bell is 12 feet high, has a diameter of 16 feet 3 inches at the lip and weighs 90 tons. No wonder it hangs as the largest ringing bell in the world.

Around Mandalay

PYIN OO LWIN (MAYMYO)

It was formerly called Maymyo, the town of May after Colonel May of the Bengal Infantry Regiment which was stationed there in 1886, a year after the annexation of the whole of Myanmar by the British. Pyin Oo Lwin is its original name meaning a highland plain. The city nestles on a plateau about 3,500 feet high, 70 kilometers to the east of Mandalay. Pyin Ooo Lwin can be nearly 8 degrees Celsius cooler than the plains below, the perfect climate for growing flowers, fruits and vegetables year-round. Place to visit include the Botanical Garden (142 hectare), Pwe kauk Water falls and Peik chin myaung cave. It is one of the most pleasant scenic spots not only in Myanmar but also in South-East-Asia perhaps.

MOGOK

Mogok is just a famous town as the ruby-land of Myanmar either in Myanmar or the international community. It is 128 miles from Mandalay. The ruby-land is in the centre of four mountains namely 5,955 feet high Myomin taung in the east, 7,544 feet high Taungme taung in the north-east,
5, 277 feet high Daw Nan Keeh taung and 5, 354 feet high Pingu taung in the west. Hence geography of Mogok looks like an oven. There are green and lush forests around the town as there is wet weather.

Loi-mwe National Park, one hour drive from Kyaing-tong, situated 5542 feet-above sea level could be toured around. Akha, Wa and Lahu tribes in their way of adjusting between development and cultural preservation could be seen at Ho-latt, Naung-cho and Pang-Y , their respective small villages. During British colonial rule (1885-1940), one Governor House was built for Summer Residence, and a Church: interesting places to visit at Loi-mwe.

Confluence of famous Mekong River and Nam-hop rivulet is the infamous Golden Triangle. Notoriety and miseries of opium trade of the area have been wiped out, unrivalled beauty Mother Nature has presented been prepared for gentle people to meet simple natives. Across the bridge, spanning Mesai River from Ta-chi-leik is Thailand's northern-most town, Mesai. Permission to stroll around Mesai market place could be obtained at Checkpoint.

Mogok is just a famous town as the ruby-land of Myanmar either in Myanmar or the international community. It is 128 miles from Mandalay. The ruby-land is in the centre of four mountains namely 5,955 feet high Myomin taung in the east, 7,544 feet high Taungme taung in the north-east, 5, 277 feet high Daw Nan Keeh taung and 5, 354 feet high Pingu taung in the west. Hence geography of Mogok looks like an oven. There are green and lush forests around the town as there is wet weather.

Mogok is a town where mixed national races of Shan, Palaung and Lisu are mainly residing. Gems mining and selling is their living while some other local people work on farms. It is said that the land of Mogok existed about 1-thousand million years ago where human beings had been living in pre-historic era. Geologists estimate that the rock layer of Mogok is one of the most natural rock layers of Myanmar.