Bagan

The main tourist destination in Myanmar is Bagan, capital of the first Myanmar Empire; one of the richest archaeological sites in South-east Asia. The 42 sq km area of Bagan contains over 2000 edifices, the well-preserved pagodas and temples representing the rich cultural heritage of the 11th - 13th century. Bagan, lying on the left bank of the Ayeyarwaddy in the dry zone of Central Myanmar, is the most important historical site in the country. It was the capital for two and a half centuries when the Burmese empire reached the zenith of its power. It is to Bagan that the religion of the people owes its greatest debt, and it was here that Burmese art and architecture passed through a golden age. Its early history, however is wrapped in uncertainty. Tradition asserts that it was originally a cluster of nineteen villages, and pushes back the foundation of the dynasty of 55 kings to early 2nd century. It is only in the middle of the 11th century that thae legendary accounts give place to more substantial facts. Authentic history of the dynasty begins with the accession of Anawrahta (1044-77) in whose reign Bagan rose to pre-eminence.

According to the legendry, Bagan then known as Pukam had also a classical name, Arimaddanapura. Situated in a strayegic position though on an arid plain, it commands the rice fields of Kyaukse in the north-east and Minbu in he south-west. From this base Anawrahta unfied the whole country politically. After conquering the Mon kingdom of Thaton he procured the pali scriptures of Theravada Buddhism which the deposed king, Manuha, had earlier refused to present him. With the help of Shin Arahan, Anawrahta converted his people who were hitherto Mahayanists and spirit-worshippers. Together with the captive king he brought back from Thaton numerous Mon architects, artists and craftsmen and began to build imposing pagodas at Bagan. The religious fervour was upheld by his successors for more than two centuries during which period pagodas and temples of various dimensions were erected by the royalty and the common people. Anawrahta’s successors, particularly Kyansittha, Alaungsithu and Narapatisithu continued this phenomenal building programme, although the construction work must have been virtually non-stop throughout the period of Bagan’s glory.

Bagan's importance lies in its heritage rather than its present. It was first built probably in AD 849 and, from the 11th century to the end of the 13th, was the capital of a region roughly the size of modern Myanmar. In 1287 it was overrun by the Mongols during their wide-ranging conquests, and it never recovered its position, though a little desultory building continued on Buddhist shrines.

Places of Interest in Bagan Areas

ANANDA TEMPLE

One of the finest, largest, best preserved and most revered of the Bagan temples, Ananda suffered considerable damage in the 1975 earthquake but has been totally restored. Thought to have been built around 1105 by King Kyansittha, this perfectly proportioned temple heralds the stylistic end of the Early Bagan period and the beginning of the Middle period. In 1990, on the 900th anniversary of the temple’s construction, the temple spires were gilded. The remainder of the temple exterior is whitewashed from time to time.

The central square measures 53 meters along each side while the superstructure rises in terraces to a decorative umbrella 51 meters above the ground. The entranceways make the structure into a perfect Greek cross; each entrance is crowned with a stupa finial. The base and the terraces are decorated with 554 glazed tiles showing jataka scenes (life stories of the Buddha) thought to be derived from Mon texts. Huge carved teak doors separate interior halls from cross passages on all four sides.

Facing outwards from the centre of the cube, four 9.5 meter standing Buddhas represent the four Buddhas who have attained nirvana. Only the Bagan style images facing north and south are original. The other two images are replacements for figures destroyed by fires. All four have bodies of solid teak.

THATBYINNYU TEMPLE

Towering above the other monuments of Bagan, the magnificence in white which is the Thatbyinnyu takes its name from the Omniscience of the Buddha. Thatbyinnutanyan in Burmese. ‘ Omniscience ’ is given further explanation in contemporary inscription as “ knowing thoroughly and seeing widely ”. Built by King Alaungsithu (1113-1163), the Thatbyinnyu is a transitional temple, standing between the Early style of the Ananda, half a mile to the north-east, and the Late style of the Gawdawpalin, half a mile to the north-west. It is one of the earliest double-storeyed temples.

In a monastery compound slightly to the south-west of the temple you can see the stone supports which once held the temple’s huge bronze bell. North-east of the temple stands a small “ tally pagoda ” which was built of one brick for every 10,000 bricks used in the main temple.

SHWEGUGYI TEMPLE

This temple was built by Alaungsithu in 1311, this smaller but elegant pahto is an example of the middle period, a transition in architectural style from the dark and cloistered to the airy and light. This brighter design was carried out through the use of more open doorways and windows. The basic profile of the temple, whose name means ” Great Golden Cave ”, presages the magnificent Gawdawpalin temple with its corncob sikhara(temple finial) a scaled down version of the one at Ananda temple and the move towards vertically.

This temple is also notable for its fine stucco carvings and for the stone slabs in the inner wall which tell its history, including the fact that its construction took seven and a half months.

GAWDAWPALIN TEMPLE

One of the largest and most imposing of the Bagan temples, it was begun during the reign of Narapatisithu and finished under Nadaungmya (1211-34) but was very badly damaged in the 1975 earthquake. This tip of the temple was as high as 55 meters. The name literally means “ Platform to which Homage is Paid ”. The Gawdawpalin is a double-storeyed temple in the Late style.

BUPAYA

Right on the bank of the Ayeyarwaddy, this cylindrical Pyu-style stupa is said to be the oldest in Bagan. Local residents claim it dates to the 3rd century AD, although there is little proof to support this belief. More likely it was erected about the same time as the city walls, that is around 850 AD- a dating which still distinguishes it as one of Bagan’s earliest stupas.

Bupaya was completely destroyed when it tumbled into the river in the 1975 earthquake, but has since been totally rebuilt. The distinctively shaped bulbous stupa stands above rows of crenellated terraces.

SHWESANDAW PAGODA

Following his conquest of Thaton in 1057, King Anawrahta built this graceful circular stupa at the centre of his newly empowered kingdom. The five terraces once bore terracotta plaques showing scenes from the jatakas (life stories of the Buddha), but traces of these, and of other sculptures, were covered by rather heavy-handed renovations. The pagoda bell rises from two octagonal bases which top the five square terraces. This was the first monument at Bagan to feature stairways leading from the square bottom terraces to the round base of the stupa itself. This stupa supposedly enshrines a Buddha hair relic brought back from Thaton.

Since the closing of the stairways to the upper terraces of Bagan’s tallest monuments, the upper terrace of Shwesandaw Pagoda has become a popular sunset-viewing spot.

DHAMMAYANGI TEMPLE

One of the most massive temples of Bagan, the Dhammayangyi can be seen from quite a distance from all directions. It is also noted for its fine brickwork, the bricks fitting so close together that there is hardly any space between. This temple was built by King Narathu in the 12th century.

SULAMANI TEMPLE

This temple known as the “ Crowning Jewel ”, stands beyond Dhammayangi Temple and was built circa 1181 by Narapatisithu (1174-1211). Carved stucco on mouldings, pediments and pilasters represents some of Bagan’s finest ornamental work and is in fairly good condition. Glazed plaques around the base and terraces are also still visible.

MINGALAZEDI

The last of the great pagodas of Bagan, the Mingalazedi, the “ Auspicious Pagoda ”, was built by King Narathihapate (1256-1287).

THARABA GATE

The Tharaba, the main gate of the eastern wall is the only one left of the twelve gates of the walled city which King Pyinbya established in 849. The Gate is interesting because it is the only piece of secular architecture left.

HTILOMINLO TEMPLE

The Htilominlo is named after its builder, King Htilominlo (1211-1234). The Htilominlo is one of the larger temples of Bagan, each side of the square base measuring 140 feet, and the whole structure rising 150 feet high. Portions of the fine plaster carving still remain on the arch pediments, frieze and pilasters, but the murals inside have felt the passage of time. Of some interest are the horoscopes of important personages inscribed high up on the walls to escape destruction.

SHWEZIGON PAGODA

In the south-west of the Town Nyaung Oo, on the eastern bank of the Ayewarwaddy river lies a religious precinct of over 750 feet in length, fenced in on all four sides by great thick brick walls. In the middle of this precinct stands majestically an immense monument of 160 feet in width at the base and 160 feet in height. This monument is Shwezigon Pagoda of early Bagan Period. Its original builder was King Anawrahta (1044-1077). Construction was begun in the year 1059 AD but was not finished in his life time. King Kyansittha (1084-1113) resumed the work in the year 1089 AD and the Pagoda was completed in the year 1090 AD. The monument is now over nine centuries old.

Tradition has it that the holy tooth, collar bone and frontlet relics of the Buddha are enshrined in the Shwezigon, the tooth presented by the King of Cylon, the frontlet obtained from near Pyay. The Shwezigon is important architecturally because it became the prototype for later Myanmar pagodas. On each of the four sides of the pagoda there is a small, square temple, housing a standing Buddha in bronze, 13 feet high.

MANUHA TEMPLE

Manuha was named after the Mon king from Thaton who was held captive in Bagan by Anawrahta. Legend says that Manuha was allowed to build this temple in 1059, and that he constructed it to represent his displeasure at captivity.

LAWKANANDA PAGODA

Standing on a site close to what was once the busy harbor of Bagan, the Lawkananda meaning “ Joy of the World ” was built by King Anawrahta to enshrine a holy tooth replica.

DHAMMAYAZIKA TEMPLE

This circular temple is similar to the Shwezigon, but has an unusual and rather complex design. Built in 1196 by Narapatisithu, the stupa rises from three five sided terraces. Five small temples, each containing a Buddha image, encircle the terraces; some of them bear interior murals added during the Konbaung era. An outer wall also has five gateways.

Around Bagan

MOUNT POPA (MYANMAR’S MOUNT OLYMPUS)

An extinct volcano lying right at the centre of Myanmar, Mount Popa is worth a visit for various reasons. Nearly 5,000 feet height, the mountain is lush and green and beautiful, in stark contrast with the Dry Zone around it. The mountain comprises two parts namely the wine-glass shaped plateau and the main mountain. The ascent of the plateau is very steep but it is worth the trouble as the view from its top is breath-taking.Another attractive feature of Mount Popa is that it abounds in medicinal roots, herbs and other tree products. Orchids and several other exotic flowers are also found there. The plantations at the foot of the mountain also produce grapes, bananas, jackfruits and several other fruits. Many trees have grown and thrived on the mountain since it was designated a forest reserve area. At present, it has become an oasis in the hot and dry Central Myanmar.

SALAY

Salay is 36km south of Bagan. It was developed in late 12th and 13th century. There are many religious centre than Bagan. Among these religious monuments, Yougson Kyaung is the oldest surviving wooden monastery in Bagan era and Nan Paya is a large lacquer Buddhist image in Myanmar. In Yougson monastery museum, the three dimensional wood carving of 19th century is incomparable in Myanmar. The two-story colonial building and Thdanayaunggyi monastery are also very interesting places in Salay. Salay is also famous for Bagan Era writer, U Ponga. His monastery and libraries are still originally. Near U Ponga monastery compound, an interconnected complex of three brick shines, Payathonzu is noted for 19th century well painting. Salay is one of the religious and historical sites in Myanmar.